The 2003 Barolo Vigna del Gris reveals super-ripe aromatics followed by perfumed, sweet red fruits. Medium in body, this floral, delicate Barolo possesses outstanding length although it did shut down a little on the finish. Another year or two should help the tannins better integrate into the wine. Vigna del Gris is made from the lower portion of the Ginestra vineyard and shows more of the ripeness and sweetness of the vintage than Sori Ginestra. Anticipated maturity: 2008-2015. Things haven’t changed much at Conterno-Fantino, at least not yet. The estate continues to make sleek, modern-styled Barolos aged in 100% new French oak. Guido Fantino tells me his son Fabio has begun aging a few lots of his own wine in mid-size casks, so it will be interesting to see the direction the new generation takes. The estate has a new Barolo from the Mosconi vineyard that will make its debut with the 2004 vintage. My early impressions from cask of this and the estate’s other 2004 Barolos are positive.Importer: Empson USA, Alexandria, VA; tel. (703) 684-0900

Nothing really wrong with the wine, but as it came from a producer I have come to expect much of, I found this a little disappointing. The fruit was a little bright and acidic, the palate showed a touch of hollowness and the finish was quite short.——M.G.(12/22/2011)—— 84