Conterno-Fantino's 2004 Barolo Vigna del Gris offers an enticing array of floral aromatics that lead to sensations of candied cherries, small red fruits, spices and marzipan. With air, this sensual, feminine Barolo opens to reveal notable inner perfume and superb length. As is usually the case, the wine doesn't quite have the stuffing to balance its tannins and it does dry out just a bit on the finish, but it is nevertheless a gorgeous, gorgeous wine. In 2004 Vigna del Gris contains fruit from both old vines and a recently re-planted section of the vineyard. Anticipated maturity: 2011-2019. I have long enjoyed the Conterno-Fantino Barolos but in recent years Claudio Conterno and Guido Fantino have taken their wines to an entirely new level. These Barolos can often be massively structured and difficult to evaluate at an early stage yet the 2004s have incredibly sweet, ripe tannins that makes them a pure joy to taste. Simply put, this is a superb collection of 2004 Barolos. -We harvested most of our fruit on October 5 and 6,- says Guido Fantino. -We did 6-8 days of fermentation after which the wines went into French oak (100% new). The malos were very long and weren't completely finished until January.-Importer: Empson USA, Alexandria, VA; tel. (703) 684-0900

Dark fruit, tobacco, rose and spice nose. Lush yet firm new oak. Light but structured, long fresh finish. Compact and tannic.