The sweet 1999 Condrieu Fleurs d'Automne was made from 100% botrytised Condrieu grapes. Sometimes these wines are thick and cloying, but Gaillard has managed to give this effort an extraordinary honeyed apricot/floral characteristic, with great fruit, unctuosity, and richness, yet no sense of heaviness or excessive sweetness. While the wine is sweet, the good underlying acidity and structure give it excellent definition, resulting in a superb after-dinner drink. It is best consumed over the next 3-4 years during its flowery, perfumed, exuberant youth.
The Gaillard wines I tasted were all cuvees selected by David Hinkle of North Berkeley Imports, Berkeley, CA; tel. (510) 848-8910. However, these wines are also imported by David Shiverick of Langdon-Shiverick, Cleveland, OH; tel. (216) 861-6800. While they are not the same barrels North Berkeley has chosen, I have been told that the Langdon-Shiverick wines were essentially identical, as well as bottled without any clarification.