The 2007 Dreadnought Syrah is cultivated on Man ‘O War’s most vertiginous vineyards with 13.5% alcohol. The nose reminded me of a great Chateau de Beaucastel: a little sweaty, a touch of brettanomyces but overflowing with character and charm. The palate is full-bodied, plush with great purity, that touch of sweatiness in the background simply adding to its complexity; a tannic finish with plum, black cherries and a touch of eau-de-vie. This is a wine that could have gone completely over-the-top but somehow they pull a superb, hedonistic but well-balanced Syrah out of the hat.
Located on the picturesque Waiheke Island just a ferry-ride from Auckland, Man ‘O War (named after the local kauri trees that supplied masts for Captain Cook’s ships) is located on the eastern side of the island on a choice parcel of land on the 4,500 acres farm owned by the Spencer family. With such expansive land, it is akin to a Burgundy vigneron gifted the choice of plots in the Cote de Nuits, and they have focused upon their steepest land, up to 45 degrees and their unique, volcanic Stony Batter Clay Loam soil. Whilst their whites still need a bit of work, their reds were very impressive.
No known American importer.
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