The 2007 Barbera d’Asti Pomorosso emerges from the glass with layers of inky dark fruit, smoke, incense, tar, licorice, French oak and worn-in leather. A supple, textured Barbera, the Pomorosso delivers tons of depth and richness in a bold, racy style that nevertheless avoids the excess of some previous versions. Anticipated maturity: 2011-2017. Importer: Folio Fine Wine Partners, Napa, CA; tel. (707) 256-2700

Here’s a wine that opens beautifully to all your senses. It boasts a dense, vibrant ruby color and delivers bright aromas of cherry, blackberry and bitter cranberry. In the mouth, however, this wine is softer and plusher than you’d expect. Sure, that trademark Barbera acidity is present, but its natural sharpness has been dulled.——M.L.(9/1/2010)—— 90