Endless layers of dark, balsamic-infused fruit emerge from the 2008 Barolo Brunate-Le Coste. Tar, licorice spices and plums develop in the glass. Where the Cannubi/S. Lorenzo is seductive, the Brunate-Le Coste is all about power. Virile and imposing, the 2008 is likely to require another decade to start showing its true personality, but the truth is, it is already highly appealing. Violets, menthol, tar and rose petals are just some of the many notes that burst from this super-classic Barolo. The 2008 Brunate-Le Coste is another dazzling wine from Beppe Rinaldi and his daughter Marta. It is easily among the very best wines of the year. Anticipated maturity: 2020-2038. I remember the first time I visited Giuseppe Rinaldi, about ten years ago. Buying the wines was no problem, even going back a few vintages. Today, the world has caught on and the wines seem to literally evaporate from the market. Barolo lovers recognize this small family-run estate embodies all of the qualities of the traditional school in Barolo. One of the developments of the last few years is that the Barolo Cannubi/S. Lorenzo-Ravera is much closer in quality to the Brunate-Le Coste, although in terms of their personalities, the wines remain naturally quite different. Other than that, not that much has changed. The most modern addition to the cellar is a telephone - rotary, of course. Rinaldi's 2008s are just as beautiful from bottle as they were when I tasted them from barrel last fall. Importer: Vinifera Imports, Ronkonkoma, NY; tel. (631) 467-5907

There's purity and perfume to the raspberry and cherry flavors in this Barolo, whose tannins are civilized and integrated into the elegant frame. This is intense and lingers with spice and tobacco notes. Best from 2014 through 2027. 950 cases made. –BS