Rinaldi’s 2003 Barolo Brunate/Le Coste is deeply flavored and intense, with more than enough fruit to balance its tannic structure. The characteristic balsamic notes that are typical of this wine literally jump out of the glass. This seriously long and powerful Barolo is also remarkably accessible and is a great introduction to one of Piedmont’s great wines. When tasted separately the different qualities of the two vineyards are striking. Brunate provides the muscle and complexity, while Le Coste gives the wine a measure of softness. Anticipated maturity: 2009-2019. I always look forward to visiting this small, family-run property as Giuseppe Rinaldi is one of the most entertaining producers in the zone. Armed with a wicked sense of humor, he is apt to keep visitors engaged for hours. Walking into the cellar is like stepping into the past, a time when the pace of life was much slower and still rooted in a more human tempo. Like all producers Rinaldi was faced with the prospect of an unusually early harvest. "I absolutely refused to pick my Nebbiolos in September, so I waited until the first of October," says Rinaldi. I have never seen anything like 2003. It was so hot that summer that on many evenings I would take a candle and good book and go sleep in the cellar." Rinaldi's 2003s are more successful than I had originally envisaged, yet his 2004s were rapturous when I tasted them from barrel a few months ago. Giuseppe Rinaldi's Barolos remain among the most rigorously traditional wines being made today. They will appeal most to readers looking for pure, unadulterated wines, that while not always perfect from a technical standpoint, never fail to deliver a memorable drinking experience. Importer: Vinifera Imports, Ronkonkoma, NY; tel. (631) 467-5907

Shows wonderful aromas of ripe strawberry, with hints of nectarine. Full and silky, with pretty fruit and a caressing finish. Racy. Best after 2009. -JS