Some patience is required to plow through the early aromas of cherry cough drops, bitter chocolate and smoke, but once you make it past that the wine turns decidedly red and fresh. The palate has tang and a citrusy quality, while flavors of zesty red fruits hint at lemon and pie cherry. A high-toned wine that’s ready to drink now and over the next five years with lamb or beef.——M.S.(8/1/2010)—— 89