The 2004 Etna Bianco Superiore Pietramarina reveals notable intensity and depth in its sweet ripe peaches, flowers, mint, minerals and smoke. This richly-textured wine possesses tons of elegance in an understated yet compelling style that recalls the focus of a great Chablis. Once again, Benanti’s Pietramarina is one of the most unique and compelling whites coming out of Italy. Pietramarina is the estate’s top selection of the indigenous white Carricante. Anticipated maturity: 2009-2012. I can’t think of too many properties in Sicily, or Italy, for that matter, that turn out such a large number of outstanding wines. The family-run Benanti winery is located on the slopes of Mount Etna. These volcanic soils are the source for most of the grapes, although some of the Nero d’Avola comes from Pachino while the Zibibbo is grown on the island of Pantelleria. Readers should do whatever they can to taste these unique wines. Importer: JA-AR Imports, Ltd., Stellar Cellars, East Brunswick, NJ; tel. (732) 762-9524