The Gualco family’s 2006 Corbieres Tradition – a tank-raised blend of Grenache, Carignan, Syrah and Mourvedre – smells of ripe red raspberries, marjoram, and sage. With less gamey or meaty character than is often present in this cuvee, it offers generous fruit, mild tannins, and a smoky, peat-tinged finish. Christopher Cannan Europvin Selections (various importers), Bordeaux; fax 001-33-5 57-87-43-22.