The 1997 St. Aubin Les Combes, from 30 year old vines, has a stone and earth-scented nose as well as a floral, hazelnut-laden, and medium-bodied character. This thick, mouth-coating, and satin-textured wine has excellent grip and considerable flavor. Anticipated maturity: now-2003. Importer: Robert Chadderdon Selections, New York, NY; tel (212) 775-8185.