From a single strip of this large cru - and one whose lower portion he declassifies to Bourgogne - Charlopin's 100 cases worth of 2006 Clos Vougeot (tasted from barrel) features scents and flavors of burley tobacco, dark chocolate, smoked meats, iodine, and black fruit preserves. It possess a soft, creamy center that suits its predominant sweetness, but reveals its underlying tannins unmistakably - though not obtrusively - in the finish. Typical for wines at this address, there will be those who love the style and those who find its sense of sweetness too confectionary. But there is no question that this is complex, not just richly ripe, and I suspect it will repay up to a decade's aging. Philippe Charlopin is known for his outgoing personality, which applies also to the wines of his domaine spread over more than two dozen appellations, an astonishing nine of which are grand crus. Elevage is long here, and when I last tasted his 2006s with Charlopin in Spring 2008, none had yet been bottled.Various importers, including The Country Vintner, Ashland, VA 23005; tel. (804) 752-3670 and Elite Wines, Lorton VA; tel. (703) 339-8150 and Wine Imports, Ltd., San Francisco, CA; tel. (415) 451-2520
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