Jobard’s 2007 Meursault Poruzots emphasizes nutty piquancy and crushed stone from nose to tail. Allowing for its having been racked not long before I tasted it, this shows considerable glycerin-richness, along with satisfying stratification of high-toned citrus oil, pit fruit distillate, and herbal essences; nuts and grains; bright fresh citrus; and deep chalky, stony pavement. Grapefruit zest, peach fuzz, and toasted hickory lend a sense of invigoration to a layered, gripping finish. This is another wine that will strike some tasters as austere and off-putting, and there is no question it is more formidable than winsome right now, but that reflects in part the site itself. It should be worth following for at least the better part of a decade.Antoine Jobard’s avowed upholding of his father’s “classic style” – enhanced by late bottling but with exclusively passive lees contact – extends to his preference for 2007 over the obviously richer, lower-acid 2005 and 2006 vintages, and his analogy with 2004 “except finer, less vegetal, and straighter” is born out by parallel tasting. While these 2007s display the brightness of acids, strong mineral cast, and energy that are hallmarks of 2007, few white Burgundy collections of the vintage were as tight and restrained last summer as was Jobard’s. He began picking already on September 3 and finished in only a week, in large part to guard acidity, although his must weights were already ample, and the finished wines – certain of which were lightly chaptalized – typically in the upper 12s in percent alcohol.Importer: Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant, Berkeley, CA; tel. (510) 524-1524; also imported by Martine’s Wines, Novato, CA; tel. (415) 883-0400
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