Aromas of cassis and plums mingle with notions of pencil lead, woodsmoke and rich soil tones, introducing the 2017 Volnay 1er Cru Les Santenots du Milieu, a medium to full-bodied, velvety and succulent wine, with good depth at the core and powdery structuring tannins, concluding with a long finish. This is a comparatively giving, expressive rendition of Santenots, a cuvée that can often be a little introverted in its youth—indeed, I sometimes think it as the Clos Vougeot of the C?te de Beaune chez Leroy—though it still possesses plenty of upside.