The 2015 Volnay 1er Cru Les Santenots du Milieu from Domaine Leroy is one of the more brooding, reserved wines in the portfolio this year, opening in the glass with notes of plums, inky dark berries and pencil shavings. On the palate, the wine is full-bodied, bottomlessly deep and powerful, with immense concentration and a velvety but firm chassis of tannin that asserts itself on the chalky, authoritative finish. This will take time to realize all its potential, but at maturity this score is likely to look conservative.
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