Assembled from a variety of sites, including the Portz and Ur-Goldgrube, Vollenweider’s 2009 Wolfer Goldgrube Riesling Spatlese smells of yeasts and fermentative residues, behind which emerge ripe pear, lime, and heady perfume of gardenia, all of which migrate to a luscious palate, with hints of browned butter and salt adding savor to a protracted, overtly sweet yet lip-smacking and downright refreshing finish. This should be worth following for 15-20 years, and I would personally lock any bottles up for a decade and let them at least begin to shed some superficial sweetness. Still, I wouldn’t dream of blaming the many Mosel Riesling-lovers who’ll take great pleasure in it already. Regular followers of Daniel Vollenweider’s wines (for more general information about which consult my many previous reports) will note several changes with vintage 2009. The volume of dry wines has increased, because as he has expanded his acreage, he needs to generate more business from inside Germany. There is an absence of wine in the interim “feinherb” range, but that, Vollenweider assures me, is merely a vintage aberration: he had so few musts in 2009 that in his view stood any chance of fermenting successfully below 60 or more grams of residual sugar that he needed to encourage those he did have to cross the threshold into trocken (read: “marketable-inside-Germany”) territory. The ban on pre-1971 vineyard names being selectively enforced by the controlling authorities, and the name of one of those vineyards most dear to him, namely “Reiler,” also being the same as the adjectival form on labels of nearby wine village Reil, Vollenweider has decided to banish from his price list and bottles any vineyard identifications within the Goldgrube. He bottled his sweet wines already in April, save for a mere 20 liters of potential T.B.A. that were still fermenting. That Vollenweider is happy to take his chances in such low-volume, high-Oechsle circumstances rather than cautiously blending-away the sluggishly-fermenting must was reinforced by a taste from bottle of his would-be 2005 T.B.A., a strikingly Eszencia-like if almost too-sweet, 4% alcohol non-wine of which there were 50 liters on whose continued fermentation he finally gave up, and on which I omit further enticing details, since it cannot be commercialized. Importers include Vineyard Research, Inc., Lunenburg, MA; tel. 617 686 8052; Ewald Moseler Selections, Portland OR; tel. 888 274 4312; A Bill Mayer Age of Riesling Selection Imported by Valley View Wine Sales, Glen Ellen, CA; tel. (510) 549 2444