From parts of the original Goldgrube as well as the Portz (some years subjected to separate bottling), Vollenweider's 2008 Wolfer Goldgrube Riesling Spatlese smells fascinatingly of moss, sage, green tea, spruce resin, and lemon zest. Pungent but at the same time exuberantly juicy and refreshing as well as buoyant and faintly creamy on the palate, this displays enormous yet subtle depth. Intertwined, oscillating strands of fruit, herb, and mineral elements serve for almost endless fascination in the finish, whose sweetness is impeccably-judged. The longer this is open the better it gets. I suspect it will be worth following for at least 20 years.
Given the premium Daniel Vollenweider puts on delicacy and vivacity as hallmarks of Middle Mosel Riesling, it is easy to see why he is pleased with the character of his 2008s, although in the dry echelons these wines are apt to strike many tasters as too marked by their acidity.
Importers include Vineyard Research, Inc., Lunenburg, MA; tel. 617 686 8052; Ewald Moseler Selections, Portland OR; tel. 888 274 4312; A Bill Mayer Age of Riesling Selection Imported by Valley View Wine Sales, Glen Ellen, CA; tel. (510) 549 2444
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