Hauner’s specialty is dessert wine and the 2011 Malvasia delle Lipari is a case in point. A blend of 95% Malvasia delle Lipari and 5% Corinto Nero (this this the traditional formula used in this denomination), this delicate dessert wine opens to a light golden color and brilliant luminosity. This wine is not in-your-face the way Passito di Pantelleria (made with fragrant Zibibbo grapes) is. Instead, it moves in small steps with tones of white flower, honey and Golden Delicious apple. Drink 2014-2019.
Carlo Hauner (1927-1996) lived a dream common to us all. In the early 1960s, he vacationed on the verdant island of Salina in the Aeolian Archipelago off the northern coast of Sicily. He immediately fell in love with the enchanting, rustic surroundings and decided to leave northern Italy and live permanently on Salina. This legendary figure is credited with bringing winemaking legitimacy to Salina and the Malvasia delle Lipari appellation. Today, his son Carlo Hauner Jr. continues work at the winery with the same level of enthusiasm and dedication. Despite his tall frame, light eyes and blond hair, Carlo is the figure most identified with the wines of Salina. I had the chance to visit with him recently. We crisscrossed the island in his old Jeep (picking up hitchhikers along the way because that’s the custom on an island with poor public bus service) to scope out his favorite vineyard sites. Caper bushes grow between the cracks in the dry walls separating vineyard parcels and prickly pears line the perimeters. Clouds passed quickly overhead and the skies were dotted with sky-gliders who launch from the island’s tallest peaks. There is no exaggerating the beauty of this magical place.
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