While waiting for the appearance of the 2003 Villa Fidelio, one of central Italy’s major Bordeaux blends, readers cannot go wrong with the 2003 Assisi Rosso of Sportoletti with well defined berry fruit and notes of resin and tar on the nose, a round and ample palate, and more concentration and density than usual on its energetic finish. Drink: 2006-2012. Importer: Winebow, New York, NY; tel. (212) 255-9414