Only 250 cases of the 1989 Rioja Gran Reserva have been released. The last vintage that Remelluri declared a Gran Reserva was 1985. The 1989 exhibits an opaque garnet color, and a huge, provocative fragrance of hickory smoke, barbeque spices, chocolate, jammy black fruits, truffles, and herbs. The bouquet's immense complexity is followed by a wine of extraordinary power, richness, and body. Imagine a top Brunello di Montalcino aged in 100% new oak given an injection of steroids, and readers might have an image of just how rich and boldly-styled this Rioja has turned out. The wine boasts remarkable length, an unctuous texture, and plenty of tannin lurking beneath the layers of creamy, sweet (from ripeness, not sugar) fruit. Already stunning, this wine should drink well for a decade.This relatively young winery is one of the showcase producers for the newer style of Spanish reds - earlier bottling, small barrique aging, and an unmanipulated, artisanal style. I enjoyed Remelluri's debut releases, and the recent offerings have taken the intensity level to greater heights as the estate's vineyards have matured.Importer: Fine Estates From Spain, 75 Fox Meadow Lane, Dedham, MA 02026; tel. (617) 461-5767 and fax (617) 461-2570

Dark and rather heavy, with ripe flavors of raisins and coffee, intense but a bit clumsy, with drying tannins on the finish. Has concentration but lacks grace. Drink now through 1998. Tasted twice, with consistent notes.??–TM??Region: Spain / Rioja Select to Add