Readers won’t want to miss this producer’s 2004s. It is a superb vintage for Montepeloso. Chiarelotto’s Sangiovese-based 2004 Eneo, a dark ruby, opens with a huge nose of scorched earth, smoke, herbs and tobacco followed by lovely core of red cherry fruit. Muscular and powerful yet medium in body, it displays excellent length, a fine finish and lovely overall balance. Anticipated maturity: 2007-2014. Fabio Chiarelotto is the charismatic proprietor of this small estate located in Suvereto, just up the road from Tua Rita. Chiarelotto’s emphasis is clearly in the vineyards, where in addition to the main varietals he produces, he has also planted a few rows of grapes not native to Tuscany such as Refosco and Schiopettino, which are typically found in Friuli. The vinification facilities are bare bones and the winemaking is as stripped down as possible. These are very pure, unadulterated, textbook expressions of Suvereto terroir. Importer: The Rare Wine Co., Sonoma, CA; tel. (707) 996-4484