The 2009 Pinot Noir Peay Vineyard comes across as big, relatively full-bodied and heavy. There is plenty of depth to the fruit, but not so much in the way of finesse or elegance. I expected more from this bottling given the location of the vineyard. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2015. I tasted a dizzying array of Pinot Noirs from Williams Selyem and winemaker Bob Cabral. Yields were down in 2009 because of bunch-stem necrosis, a condition that can occur because of weather/humidity extremes or mineral imbalances. Otherwise, it was a pretty regular vintage with an even set and a harvest that took place beginning in early September.Tel. (707) 433-6425

A big, thick, ripe Pinot Noir that needs time in the cellar. Right now it’s all primary berry and cola fruit, with the anise and pine needle notes you often find in better Sonoma Coast Pinot Noirs. It’s also pretty tannic. Give it at least six years, and it should develop well through 2021. ——S.H.(2/1/2012)—— 93

Medium ruby, with complex aromatics reminiscent of a premier cru from the Cote de Beaune, the strawberry, black cherry and foresty notes of the 2008 Pinot Noir Peay Vineyard are hard to resist. One of the softer, lusher styles from Williams-Selyem, this wine is medium-bodied, elegant, restrained, but beautifully fruited and seductive. Drink it over the next 5-7 years. With thirteen separate Pinot Noirs, Williams-Selyem has something for just about everybody. Eight of these Pinot Noirs hail from relatively well-known sites in the Russian River and three come from the Sonoma Coast, while the two outliers are the Weir Vineyard from Yorkville Highlands and the Ferrington Vineyard from the Anderson Valley. Three well-regarded vineyards of the Sonoma Coast comprise part of this impressive Pinot Noir portfolio from Williams-Selyem. With eight Russian River bottlings, the two with the largest availability are the Eastside Road Neighbors and Westside Road Neighbors, which are blends from different fruit sources. The most underrated wines in the entire portfolio are the Zinfandels that come from winemaker Bob Cabrol.Tel. (707) 433-6425; Fax (707) 433-6546