The acidic flavors of the deep ruby/purple-colored 2003 Pinot Noir Peay Vineyard are accompanied by cranberry, raspberry, red currant, and cold steel characteristics. Clearly a cool climate Pinot with striking minerality, high acidity, and a pure, delineated style, it should age for a decade or more. Tel. (707) 433-6425; Fax (707) 433-6546

Here’s a dark, dense Pinot, brooding under its cloak of tannins and acids. It’s absolutely dry, with intense cherry pie, cola, root beer and oak flavors. If you drink it now without decanting, you’ll find a tough, hard wine. Let it breathe for a day, and it will begin to suggest its charms. Or let it develop naturally in the cellar for six years. ——S.H.(3/1/2006)—— 92