The 2004 Pinot Noir Peay Vineyard exhibits mineral, oak, crushed rock, white flower, blueberry, and raspberry notes. Medium-bodied, it comes across as a very low-pH/high-acid wine. Tel. (707) 433-6425; Fax (707) 433-6546

The acidity is there, and the tannins. Both together make the wine young, immature, gritty, but they enable the wine to age. There’s a terrific core of cherries, rhubarb, cola and pomegranates. It’s a big Pinot, dry and gutsy, yet never loses its silky, lightly tannic expressiveness. You could drink it now with a few hours decanting, but it’s best left alone for five or six years. ——S.H.(3/1/2007)—— 91