The 2009 Pinot Noir Flax Vineyard is an understated wine, but today it seems to be holding back much of its potential. There is plenty of energy in reserve here. Bright, high-toned aromatics wrap around the long, pointed finish. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2017. I tasted a dizzying array of Pinot Noirs from Williams Selyem and winemaker Bob Cabral. Yields were down in 2009 because of bunch-stem necrosis, a condition that can occur because of weather/humidity extremes or mineral imbalances. Otherwise, it was a pretty regular vintage with an even set and a harvest that took place beginning in early September.Tel. (707) 433-6425

A sip is all it takes to fall in love with this potent Pinot Noir. Big tannins and crisp acidity make it hard to appreciate now, but there’s a gigantic core of cherries and raspberries, with a firm minerality from the soil. Will develop bottle complexity over the years. Don’t even think of popping the cork before 2015. ——S.H.(2/1/2012)—— 95

Slightly darker ruby in color, the 2008 Pinot Noir Flax Vineyard exhibits sweet cherry cola and loamy soil notes. This straightforward but enjoyable, medium-bodied wine has good roundness, fruit and spice. It is not complex, but it is well-made and should drink nicely for another 4-5 years. With thirteen separate Pinot Noirs, Williams-Selyem has something for just about everybody. Eight of these Pinot Noirs hail from relatively well-known sites in the Russian River and three come from the Sonoma Coast, while the two outliers are the Weir Vineyard from Yorkville Highlands and the Ferrington Vineyard from the Anderson Valley. Three well-regarded vineyards of the Sonoma Coast comprise part of this impressive Pinot Noir portfolio from Williams-Selyem. With eight Russian River bottlings, the two with the largest availability are the Eastside Road Neighbors and Westside Road Neighbors, which are blends from different fruit sources. The most underrated wines in the entire portfolio are the Zinfandels that come from winemaker Bob Cabrol. Tel. (707) 433-6425; Fax (707) 433-6546