The 2009 Pinot Noir Flax Vineyard is an understated wine, but today it seems to be holding back much of its potential. There is plenty of energy in reserve here. Bright, high-toned aromatics wrap around the long, pointed finish. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2017. I tasted a dizzying array of Pinot Noirs from Williams Selyem and winemaker Bob Cabral. Yields were down in 2009 because of bunch-stem necrosis, a condition that can occur because of weather/humidity extremes or mineral imbalances. Otherwise, it was a pretty regular vintage with an even set and a harvest that took place beginning in early September.Tel. (707) 433-6425

A sip is all it takes to fall in love with this potent Pinot Noir. Big tannins and crisp acidity make it hard to appreciate now, but there’s a gigantic core of cherries and raspberries, with a firm minerality from the soil. Will develop bottle complexity over the years. Don’t even think of popping the cork before 2015. ——S.H.(2/1/2012)—— 95