The Real McCoy of the Middle Reach, a fabulous wine. The aroma is a joy, with intricate fruit, herb, meat, spice, coffee and oak scents mingled in harmony. Turns lush and soft in the mouth, very fat, amazingly complex, with near-perfect acidity and tannins. Bone dry, and intricately layered, it’s a taste treat through the fantastically long finish. Drink now through 2010. ——S.H.(5/1/2004)—— 94