The 2004 Pinot Noir Flax Vineyard shows riper raspberries, more depth than some of the other cuvees, and an enticing nose of dried herbs, sweet fruit, and flowers. This pretty wine is medium-bodied but beautifully rendered and elegant. This one should age nicely. Tel. (707) 433-6425; Fax (707) 433-6546

This is really a fabulous Pinot Noir that is absolutely Grand Cru. It’s balanced, but what’s hard to describe is how the wine can be silky and airy, yet dense and complex. The fruit is amazingly ripe, a detonation of cherries, cola, raspberries, pomegranates and coffee, with new oaky layers of caramel, toast and vanilla, but it all comes together in a seamless, elegant, complex experience that’s a joy to savor. Terrific now. Should hit its peak in 2007–2009, and hold for a decade. ——S.H.(3/1/2007)—— 96