The 2011 Pinot Noir Three Rows is quite massive in this vintage. Once again, the personality of the Rochioli clone comes through in spades. The firm tannins of the year help to balance some of the pure overtness that seems to be lurking beneath the wine’s considerable structure. Some of the wilder notes typical of this site become more prominent on the finish. Anticipated maturity: 2014-2021. I was quite taken with the wines I tasted with proprietor Stephen Hansel earlier this year. In particular, the 2010 Chardonnays have turned out far better than I had expected. A year prior, the wines were heavy and clunky. Today, they are complete and beautifully balanced to a degree that is surprising. According to Hansel, in 2010 the Pinots were less affected by the heat spikes that year than the Chardonnays, echoing a common refrain among growers. As was the case throughout California, 2011 was an exceptionally long and cold growing season. Hansel lost the fruit for the Meadows bottling, a casualty of the October rains. At the risk of sounding repetitive, it is impossible not to realize how exceedingly fairly priced these wines are in today’s market. Stylistically, the Hansel Chardonnays show the richness from stirring of the lees and the use of 40-60% new oak. The Pinots are made from fully destemmed fruit and also tend towards the bolder side of things. Hansel reported that sugars were about a degree lower in 2011, especially for the Chardonnays. Consequently, he gave the Chardonnays a little less new oak than normal, but at the same time increased lees stirring to give the wines a bit more body. Ripeness of the Pinots was more consistent across the two vintages.Tel. (707) 525-3614

The 2009 Pinot Noir Three Rows is made from Rochioli cuttings and the vines are planted on Goldridge soils. A tiny cuvee made from, literally, three rows of vines, it is an elegant, more fruit forward, lighter-styled Pinot without the depth, concentration or complexity of its siblings. Nevertheless, it will provide enjoyable drinking in its first 4-5 years of life. If I were giving out awards for proprietors who combine remarkable humility with high quality, candidates for the top two spots would be Tom Dehlinger and Stephen Hansel. Stephen prefers his 2009s to his 2008s, primarily because they were easier to make and they have shown well since the first pressings of the grapes, always a reassuring sign of quality. Moreover, prices at this estate have not risen in over seven years and it is rare to see such reasonable prices for such high quality. The outstanding 2009 Chardonnays are all perfumed and French in style. All of them go through malolactic fermentation and are aged in approximately 40% new French oak with lees stirring and minimal clarification if possible. Hansel is also making wines from purchased grapes that sell for lower prices. All the 2009 Pinot Noirs are completely destemmed, fermented to total dryness, and then transferred on their lees into French oak barrels (70% new). Hansel is a believer of early bottling, so these cuvees are bottled 13 months after they are moved to barrel.Tel. (707) 525-3614; Fax (707) 528-1310

The 2008 Pinot Noir Three Rows (only 50 cases produced) was made from a Rochioli clone planted in the original Hansel estate vineyard. It offers copious aromas of raspberries, black cherries, roasted herbs, and earth, and a medium to full-bodied personality.These are consistently terrific wines, seemingly regardless of vintage conditions. Moreover, they are realistically priced, and wine consumers couldn’t have a better friend than proprietor Stephen Hansel. All of the estate grown Chardonnays are fermented and aged in Francois Freres French cooperage (40% new and 60% used), and undergo lees stirring and full malolactic. Hansel has added two negociant wines to his portfolio made from grapes purchased from the Diamond Ranch in Carneros and Feeney Home Ranch in the Russian River. Hansel told me that yields were dramatically reduced in 2008 because of the spring frost, and that explains why the wines have an extra level of power and concentration. Across the board, Hansel’s yields were down by 33%-40% from a “regular” vintage such as 2007. The two negociant offerings are pleasant wines, but I’m not sure I understand why he’s producing them given how great the bargains are from the estate wines. The 2008 Pinot Noir crop was not as badly affected by frost as were the Chardonnays, and generally, the following wines are all tightly-knit and slightly closed, but with good acidity, concentration, and potential.Tel. (707) 525-3614; Fax (707) 528-1310

Dark ruby in color is the 2006 Pinot Noir Three Roads. From a Rocchioli clone of Pinot, the wine has sweet cherry, raspberry, and pomegranate notes intermixed with some leafiness and underbrush. The wine has an expansive mid-palate, full body, and a long finish. This is certainly among my two favorites of the vintage. A terrific source of sensational Pinot Noirs and Chardonnays made very much in the style of the wines proprietor Stephen Hansel loves the most, white and red Burgundies, this 80-acre estate continues to build on a brilliant track record of high quality wines offered to consumers at sensationally fair prices.Previously recommended: 2005 Chardonnay Cahill Lane (92), 2005 Chardonnay Estate (91), 2005 Pinot Noir Cahill Lane (91), 2005 Pinot Noir The North Slope (92), 2005 Pinot Noir The South Slope (90).(Not yet released)Tel. (707) 525-3614; Fax (707) 528-1310