The 2001 Pinot Noir Three Rows (122 cases produced) possesses a bouquet not dissimilar from a top-notch effort from the Domaine de la Romanee-Conti. Meaty, smoky, floral, berry, dried herb, and earth scents soar from the glass of this medium ruby-colored Pinot. Fleshy, with medium to full body in addition to admirable underlying structure and delineation, it is a terrific effort made in a complex, French style (as are all of Hansel’s wines). Drink it over the next 5-7 years.For a winery founded only in 1996 (situated down the road from Dehlinger and Kistler), this estate is on fire, producing Burgundian-styled offerings that are the products of natural yeast fermentations, gentle handling in the cellars, with the Pinot Noirs kept on their lees, and no fining or filtration at bottling. If readers have not yet tasted the wines of Walter Hansel, they are missing some stunning wines. All of the cuvees enjoy 45-65 percent new oak.Tel. (707) 525-3614; Fax (707) 528-2415