The 2003 Pinot Noir Three Rows is a dark ruby-colored, mineral-dominated Pinot with an austere, monolithic personality, big structure and weight in the mouth, but neither the charm nor fruit of the other cuvees. I am not sure whether it will ever totally open and resolve all of its tannin and structure. One of northern California’s “good guys” is undeniably Stephen Hansel, who fashions top-quality Burgundian-styled Chardonnays and Pinot Noirs. Tom Rochioli first brought these wines to my attention, and Hansel is now one of my reference point visits in the North Coast. Known locally as a major car dealer, Hansel founded the winery in 1978 and now owns over 80 acres under vine. These are all noteworthy cuvees that remain somewhat under the radar. Moreover, prices remain unbelievably fair for wines of such quality. Tel. (707) 525-3614; Fax (707) 528-1310