Readers looking for a more meaty, herbal effort should check out the dark ruby-colored 2004 Pinot Noir Three Rows. It is the most elegant and lighter-styled as well as the most herbaceous Pinot of this group, offering copious quantities of sweet and sour cherries. Kudos to Stephen Hansel for keeping prices so realistic.Previously recommended: 2003 Chardonnay Cahill Lane (91), 2003 Chardonnay Cuvee Alyce (91+), 2003 Chardonnay Estate (89), 2003 Chardonnay North Slope Vineyard (90+), 2003 Pinot Noir Cuvee Alyce (92+), 2003 Pinot Noir Estate (88), 2003 Pinot Noir Hirsch Block Three (90), 2003 Pinot Noir The North Slope (90+), 2003 Pinot Noir Three Rows (88?).Tel. (707) 525-3614; Fax (707) 528-1310