The 2011 Greco di Tufo is one of the more varietally expressive, nuanced whites among the Villa Matilde’s entry-level offerings. Rich yellow-fleshed fruit, smoke, incense and ash emerge from the glass. There is an intensity and power in the 2011 that is quite striking and that also distinguishes the Greco from some of the other entry-level wines in the estate’s range. Anticipated maturity: 2013-2015. Villa Matilde excels with a wide range of wines. The house style favors textural richness and depth. At times, varietal expression can take a bit of a back seat, but the wines more than compensate for that with their extraordinary personalitites. In particular, I found a number of the reds to be simply dazzling this year. Many of these wines are also great values. Importer: Empson, USA, Alexandria, VA; tel. (703) 684-0900

The 2010 Greco di Tufo is rich, round and harmonious. Layers of ripe, generous fruit are woven into a textured fabric laced with floral aromatics and clean, saline notes that add freshness. This is another brilliant, beautifully balanced white from Villa Matilde. Anticipated maturity: 2011-2014. This is a very strong set of wines from Villa Matilde, with numerous choices that deliver stunning quality and value. Importer: Empson, USA, Alexandria, VA; tel. (703) 684-0900

The 2009 Greco di Tufo is a vivid, kaleidoscopic white endowed with notable complexity in its flowers, mint, ash and succulent yellow stone fruits. This round, harmonious Greco di Tufo is impressive for its overall balance and long, finessed finish. Anticipated maturity: 2010-2014. These three superb whites were among the best under $25 wines I tasted this year. Importer: Empson, USA, Alexandria, VA; tel. (703) 684-0900

Villa Matilde’s 2008 Greco di Tufo is a rich, expansive Greco laced with honey, apricots, peaches, ash, tangerine and white truffles. This is a heady, almost exotic Greco that needs to be paired with fairly rich foods that can stand up to the wine’s considerable body. Anticipated maturity: 2010-2014. Villa Matilde is an excellent source for wines that ooze with character. Importer: Empson, USA, Alexandria, VA; tel. (703) 684-0900

The 2007 Greco di Tufo is made in a rich, voluminous style. Ripe apricots, smoke, French oak and honey come together in this sensual wine. The extroverted style sacrifices some minerality, but this is still a gorgeous and totally delicious wine. Anticipated maturity: 2009-2012. Villa Matilde is an excellent source for both whites and reds that deliver tons of varietal and regional character. Importer: Empson, USA, Alexandria, VA; tel. (703) 684-0900