Don’t overlook the higher and higher quality Domaine La Roquette 2005 Chateauneuf du Pape blanc. A blend of 30% Grenache blanc, 40% Clairette and the rest Roussanne, this is a subtle but outstanding dry white from Chateauneuf du Pape with hints of lemon oil, rose water, and a bit of honeysuckle. The wine has fabulous fruit, good acidity, and a medium to full-bodied palate. Drink it over the next 1-2 years. At the request of Daniel Brunier, all of the estates where he produces wines have been grouped together. There are some changes, several of which I noted last year. The second wine of Vieux Telegraphe has changed its name from Vieux Mas des Papes to Telegramme, and of course there is a major effort underway by Brunier to dramatically increase the quality of La Roquette with the introduction of a new luxury cuvee of about 4,000 bottles made from 100% Grenache from 70-year-old vines planted in a sector of Chateauneuf du Pape known as Les Pialons.The importer is Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant, Berkeley, CA; tel. (510) 524-1524, except for the Domaine La Roquette, which is imported by Diageo Chateau Estate Wines, New York, NY; tel. (212) 419-1400

The 2004 Chateau La Roquette Clos La Roquette is essentially an equal-part blend of Roussanne, Clairette, and Grenache blanc. It is crisp, floral, and medium-bodied, with plenty of alcohol, but not the flavor depth I would have suspected.Importers: Pigoulet: Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant, Berkeley, CA; tel. (510) 524-1524; Chateau La Roquette: Diageo Chateau Estate Wines, New York, NY; tel. (212) 419-1400

The Chateau La Roquette 2003 Chateauneuf du Pape blanc was surprisingly delicious. Made primarily from Clairette, it has never seen a day of oak, and possesses fresh, lively notes of honeyed citrus and orange peel, crisp acidity, medium body, and plenty of fruit. Drink it over the next 1-3 years. Importers: Vieux Telegraphe and Pigoulet: Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant, Berkeley, CA; tel. (510) 524-1524; Chateau La Roquette: Diageo Chateau Estate Wines, New York, NY; tel. (212) 419-1400