Weingut Toni Jost Hahnenhof Devon S Riesling Spatlese Trocken, Mittelrhein, Germany

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Apple, yellow plum, and grapefruit scent and juicily saturate the substantial, satiny palate in Jost’s 2010 Riesling Spatlese trocken Devon S, which, surprisingly, lacks the sense of mineral dimension one would expect, but satisfies in a simple, tartly-fruited, refreshing way, and should continue to for several years (perhaps picking up more interest in the process). Jost’s musts - largely from late October picking - were all double-salt de-acidified, and certain lots, including the Grosse Gewachse from both Mittelrhein and Rheingau, also underwent malo-lactic transformation in the course of unusually long fermentations. “We should culture and sell whatever powerful bacteria managed this,” notes Cecilia Jost jocularly, considering the low-pH medium in which they worked even after double-salt treatment. High acids also prompted some experiments in extended lees exposure and skin contact, though I fancy the latter might in some instances have accentuated a tendency toward bitterness. (Cecelia Jost had acquired some experience with all of these approaches from her time in New Zealand.) Residual sugar was left higher, and alcohol lower than usual in the majority of these 2010s.Bill Mayer Age of Riesling Selections, imported by Valley View Wine Sales, Glen Ellen, CA; tel. (510) 549 2444; also imported by Dee Vine Wines, San Francisco, CA; tel. (877) 389-9463