The Jost 2009 Riesling Spatlese trocken Devon S brims with luscious pineapple and grapefruit, and while glossier in texture and (at 12% alcohol) marginally fuller than their generic dry Riesling, it is also juicier; offers a fine sense of lingering finishing interplay with salt and stones; and preserves a lovely sense of levity. This lip-smacker ought to prove deliciously versatile over at least the next 4-5 years. (I somehow neglected until it was too late to note the absence of the corresponding Bacharacher Kabinett trocken from the Jost 2009s I tasted.) For an account of some recent developments at this estate, please consult my report in issue 187. Interestingly, it was the wines from their Rheingau vineyards that suffered especially from sheer ripeness and consequent high alcohol; whereas the Josts’ best 2009s from their near-monopole Hahn escaped such difficulties and performed well indeed. Incidentally, every wine of the Josts’ save for their Grosse Gewachse – and that includes their two Pinots (which I don’t usually taste) – is now closed with screwcap, and they are among several growers I spoke with who intend to bottle their Grosse Gewachse with screwcap as well, as soon as the relevant bottles are available with the embossed Arabic numeral “1” and stylized grape cluster that identifies this category.Bill Mayer Age of Riesling Selections, Imported by Valley View Wine Sales, Glen Ellen, CA; tel. (510) 549 2444; also imported by Dee Vine Wines, San Francisco, CA tel. (877) 389-9463