The loaded 2009 Brunello di Montalcino is packed tight with mature tones of dark fruit, cherry liqueur, kirsch, cola and dark spice. There’s a dusty, earth note that grounds the wine to a sense of Sangiovese and the special territory that shapes this sun-drenched wine. The wine is a little hot on the palate (with 14.5% alcohol) and overcharged in places, but it also offers a cheerful dose of genuine personality. Drink: 2016-2022. Importer: Kobrand Corporation, www.kobrandwineandspirits.com

The 2008 Brunello di Montalcino is lovely. Tobacco, dried herbs, cedar, plums and cloves are nicely layered in the glass. Firm yet well-integrated tannins support a mid-weight finish laced with expressive floral notes. In 2008 Nardi didn’t feel conditions were ideal to bottle their top two selections, so the Brunello includes juice that would otherwise have gone into the Manachiara and Poggio Doria. Nardi’s 2008 should drink well upon release and for another decade beyond that. Vinifications lasted around 22-23 days. Nardi preferred not to go too long in 2008, fearing over-extraction given that the maturation of skins and seeds wasn’t perfect. The 2008 spent one year in French oak barrels, 25% new, followed by one year in cask. All of the parcels were vinified separately but ultimately were blended into the straight Brunello. Anticipated maturity: 2013-2020. I tasted a wide range of wines during my visit at Nardi, including several experimental bottlings that attest to the estate’s continued search for excellence. Some of the Nardi Brunellos remain works in progress, but the overall direction is quite positive. Importer: Kobrand Corp., Purchase, NY; tel. (914) 253-7756

The 2005 Brunello di Montalcino Poggio Doria shows lovely clarity and translucency in its cherries, flowers and minerals. The wine possesses impeccable balance, beautifully integrated oak and a long, clean finish. Floral red berries linger on the polished close. Not surprisingly, the Poggio Doria is the freshest of these 2005 Brunellos from Nardi as the vineyards are located in the northeastern corner of Montalcino. Anticipated maturity: 2010-2020. Importer: Kobrand Corp., Purchase, NY; tel. (914) 253-7756