The 1998 Brunello di Montalcino, the regular bottling, is a dark and fresh ruby/garnet with an elegant nose of plum and currant fruit and smoky tones, and the aromas develop more thrust in the glass. Meaty and of good volume on the palate, its density is accompanied by a slight astringence as well as tar and smoke-infused fruit. Drink: 2005-2009. Importer: Kobrand Corp., New York, NY; tel. (212) 490-9300