The 17% alcohol is a bit frightening but this wine does a reasonably good job of absorbing the heat by contrasting it with strawberry preserves, moist earth, raspberry roll-up and nutty aromas (no wood is used). It does, however, boast enormous intensity in the mouth, with sweet fruit flavors. It’s an “intellectual-meditation” wine, that won’t appeal to everyone.——M.L.(2/1/2008)—— 86

Big and rubbery, with 17.5% alcohol and a backpalate burn that will bring you to the brink. Licorice, stewed fruit and kirsch make for a heady nose. The palate is just as demanding, with reduced flavors of chocolate and raisins. Quite difficult to score; this burly Sardinian red needs a pungent sheep’s milk cheese or something similar to show its best. Imported by Vias Imports.——M.S.(7/1/2005)—— 87