The 17% alcohol is a bit frightening but this wine does a reasonably good job of absorbing the heat by contrasting it with strawberry preserves, moist earth, raspberry roll-up and nutty aromas (no wood is used). It does, however, boast enormous intensity in the mouth, with sweet fruit flavors. It’s an “intellectual-meditation” wine, that won’t appeal to everyone.——M.L.(2/1/2008)—— 86