Big and rubbery, with 17.5% alcohol and a backpalate burn that will bring you to the brink. Licorice, stewed fruit and kirsch make for a heady nose. The palate is just as demanding, with reduced flavors of chocolate and raisins. Quite difficult to score; this burly Sardinian red needs a pungent sheep’s milk cheese or something similar to show its best. Imported by Vias Imports.——M.S.(7/1/2005)—— 87