Schlossgut Diel Dorsheimer Goldloch Riesling Kabinett, Nahe, Germany

點擊次數(shù)：6701

該酒尖銳的鮮檸檬味和蘋果味，交織著檸檬草、櫻桃和帶酒精味的紅色漿果的風味，構成了 Riesling 活力四射，清爽宜人的風格氣質。余味具有極佳的穿透力度，不太復雜，十分清爽。此款酒適合在未來 6 至 8 年內飲用。自從 Caroline Diel 遠近聞名的父親 Armin 轉為一名受信賴的顧問后，Caroline Diel 正在爭取成為一座大型莊園的經(jīng)理，這種運氣將使她獲得某些特別的利益和祝福，并延續(xù)至子孫后代。此款 2010 年的酒因進行了選擇性的復鹽脫酸，強化了浸皮過程，所以釀制出的葡萄酒甘甜可口。今年的這款Grosse Gewachse 酒精含量適中，為 12.5-13%。

At 8.5% alcohol representative of the high residual sugar yet well-balanced style that has become Schlossgut Diel’s norm in residually sweet genres, their 2009 Dorsheimer Goldloch Riesling Kabinett brims with ripe peach and offers a delicate and refined yet satin-textured and almost opulently ripe impression, infused with invigorating fresh lime, iodine, and salt. This finishes buoyantly, memorably long, intriguingly interactive, and with consummate refreshment. It will be worth following for 15 or more years. Caroline Diel’s 2009 collection is noteworthy not only for a range of outstanding Riesling such as has long been anticipated (though seldom bettered) at this estate, but also for a set of wines from the Pinot family – all, incidentally, now labeled with French rather than German names for their varieties – that in my estimation mark a significant up-tick in quality. That this estate has been famous in Germany for its work with Pinots ever since Armin Diel assumed charge in 1987 and began barrique vinification, I am of course well aware. But only in recent years have I witnessed tendencies to restrain the influence of new wood and to encourage real subtlety, which seem to me prerequisites for achieving with these varieties anything remotely approaching the class of Schlossgut Diel’s Rieslings. The 2009 Pinots were harvested in mid-October and most of the Rieslings in the two weeks following. The superb botrytis selections were all picked-out ahead of even the Pinots.Importer: Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300

Ripe pear and apple with an aura of distillate and a piquancy that signals the fruit pit bitterness to come, Schlossgut Diel’s 2008 Dorsheimer Goldloch Riesling Kabinett is full of pep, but decidedly sweet-sour and bittersweet in a way that suggests it positively needs to be laid down for some years. (And of course, if you want less of a taste of sweetness, you have no choice to but age a wine of this sort and wait for esterification, polymerization, or whatever chemical magic it is that takes place.) Still, there is a lot of polish and glossiness of texture and a finish full of orchard fruit sap and citricity, so that it can enervate and entertain now, and I’d bet on it being terrific between around ages 8-15. Caroline Diel is taking the reins at her family’s estate, and results in 2008 are as impressive as one would have expected given the track record at this address. The team here did not start harvesting until the third week in October and picked for nearly a month, due to which lateness the measurable acid levels (which were not adjusted) were relatively low by vintage standards, but the impression of acidity was more than vivacious and efficacious enough. On a quest for purity and authenticity, the Diels did not include in their bench trials for the blending of Grosse Gewachse any small lots of off-dry wine such as might in past have been employed expressly to fine-tune the finished levels of residual sugar. Instead, they let the blends all remain quite dry. Armin Diel has for at least the past dozen years championed and cherished the Mosel stylistic ideals of delicacy and of high residual sugar balanced against acidity. His choices of Mosel-born cellar master Martin Franzen (now of Muller-Catoir), and more recently of Moselaner Christoph Friedrich, testify to this proclivity. But there has never been a better vintage in which to give these ideals fluid realization. So if you are a lover of Kabinetts and Spatlesen from the likes of Joh. Jos. Prum, Willi Schaefer, or the Haags, do not miss the show Caroline and Armin Diel have put on this year, and that could be playing in your cellar any night over the next two decades!Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300