Schlossgut Diel Dorsheimer Goldloch Riesling Kabinett, Nahe, Germany

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Ripe pear and apple with an aura of distillate and a piquancy that signals the fruit pit bitterness to come, Schlossgut Diel’s 2008 Dorsheimer Goldloch Riesling Kabinett is full of pep, but decidedly sweet-sour and bittersweet in a way that suggests it positively needs to be laid down for some years. (And of course, if you want less of a taste of sweetness, you have no choice to but age a wine of this sort and wait for esterification, polymerization, or whatever chemical magic it is that takes place.) Still, there is a lot of polish and glossiness of texture and a finish full of orchard fruit sap and citricity, so that it can enervate and entertain now, and I’d bet on it being terrific between around ages 8-15. Caroline Diel is taking the reins at her family’s estate, and results in 2008 are as impressive as one would have expected given the track record at this address. The team here did not start harvesting until the third week in October and picked for nearly a month, due to which lateness the measurable acid levels (which were not adjusted) were relatively low by vintage standards, but the impression of acidity was more than vivacious and efficacious enough. On a quest for purity and authenticity, the Diels did not include in their bench trials for the blending of Grosse Gewachse any small lots of off-dry wine such as might in past have been employed expressly to fine-tune the finished levels of residual sugar. Instead, they let the blends all remain quite dry. Armin Diel has for at least the past dozen years championed and cherished the Mosel stylistic ideals of delicacy and of high residual sugar balanced against acidity. His choices of Mosel-born cellar master Martin Franzen (now of Muller-Catoir), and more recently of Moselaner Christoph Friedrich, testify to this proclivity. But there has never been a better vintage in which to give these ideals fluid realization. So if you are a lover of Kabinetts and Spatlesen from the likes of Joh. Jos. Prum, Willi Schaefer, or the Haags, do not miss the show Caroline and Armin Diel have put on this year, and that could be playing in your cellar any night over the next two decades!Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300