Juicy primary apple-y fruit, streaked with chalk, cohabitates with subtle creaminess in a Diel 2011 Pinot Blanc that was raised in barriques and demi-muids, none of them new, and whose contribution of lanolin and spice are adequately integrated, though arguably responsible for a slight sense of drying in the finish. I would be inclined to serve this over the next couple of years. Caroline Diel is now the mother of two, but shows every intention and indication of personally staying on top of her estate’s viticulture. In collaboration with long-time cellarmaster Christoph Friedrich, she is both perpetuating and further refining the styles of wine that have come to characterize and enhance the long-standing reputation of Schlossgut Diel. Picking began in the last week of September and most of the top Rieslings were harvested already in the first week of October, by which point there was a significant amount of botrytis, happily largely noble, most of it picked-out in parallel with the fruit for the Grosse Gewachse. Wisely, I think – as heaven knows they have an austere side as is – the Diels elected for the sake of moderating alcohol to leave a bit more residual sugar behind this year than usual in their Grosse Gewachse. Importer: Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300

Raised in a mixture of large cask and barrique, with its lees stirred during fermentation, Diel’s 2010 Pinot Blanc nicely preserves apple-y fresh fruit and subtle corn tassel and apple blossom aromas, striking a balance between creaminess and refreshment such as this grape variety is singularly able to accomplish. A hint of equally cepage-typical hazelnut informs a persistent finish, along with pungent nips of herb and the chew of apple skin. The woody aspects truly seem to frame this wine, retaining clarity rather than tripping it up. It ought to prove versatile at table for at least 3-4 years, though I frankly have almost no experience with aged Diel Pinots. While her famous father Armin naturally continues as a trusted advisor, it is evident in conversation as well from continued adjustments in methodology that Caroline Diel is settling into her role as hands-on manager of this great estate, clearly positioning it as one of those lucky enough to receive the special benefits and blessings that can accrue to felicitous multi-generational collaboration. Selective double-salt de-acidification was performed here in 2010 – occasionally even in lots destined for residually sweet wines – and skin contact encouraged. Alcohol levels for this year’s Grosse Gewachse are in the moderate, 12.5-13% range.Importer: Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300

Consisting this year of only the contents of three barriques, Diel’s 2009 Pinot Blanc features lightly-toasted almond and hazelnut in a creamy, subtly pear-fruited matrix, with pungent nips of green herbs and piquant fruit pit lending counterpoint in a soothingly satisfying finish. It would be nice to derive a bit more sheer juiciness from this rather Burgundian, full-bodied (13.9% alcohol) rendition of its grape, but this ought to prove quite useful for at least the next 3-4 years. Caroline Diel’s 2009 collection is noteworthy not only for a range of outstanding Riesling such as has long been anticipated (though seldom bettered) at this estate, but also for a set of wines from the Pinot family – all, incidentally, now labeled with French rather than German names for their varieties – that in my estimation mark a significant up-tick in quality. That this estate has been famous in Germany for its work with Pinots ever since Armin Diel assumed charge in 1987 and began barrique vinification, I am of course well aware. But only in recent years have I witnessed tendencies to restrain the influence of new wood and to encourage real subtlety, which seem to me prerequisites for achieving with these varieties anything remotely approaching the class of Schlossgut Diel’s Rieslings. The 2009 Pinots were harvested in mid-October and most of the Rieslings in the two weeks following. The superb botrytis selections were all picked-out ahead of even the Pinots.Importer: Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300