The 2009 Rocca di Frassinello impresses for its polish and supremely elegant personality. Sweet red berries, roses and licorice are among the aromas and flavors that emerge from this pliant, polished red. This is a more feminine style than the 2008 and ultimately a touch more refined as well. The Rocca is 60% Sangioveto, 20% Merlot and 20% Cabernet Sauvignon. Anticipated maturity: 2014-2021. Proprietor Paolo Panerai is a bit of a Renaissance man. Panerai publishes Milano Finanza, Italy’s equivalent of Barrons (for which he also writes one of that country’s most widely read editorial columns), publishes a number of other more lifestyle oriented magazines and has a joint venture with CNBC, to list a few of his business interests. Oh, and he makes pretty good wines, too. Since the 1970s Panerai and his family have owned Castellare, one of the leading estates in Chianti Classico. More recently, Panerai has set his sights on making first-rate wines in Maremma through this joint venture with the Rothschild family. Rocca di Frassinello is a young winery, and the best is clearly yet to come.Importer: Vias Imports, New York, NY; tel. (212) 629-0200

The 2008 Rocca di Frassinello is especially inward and brooding. Dark cherries, tar, smoke and licorice flesh out nicely with time in the glass. The 2008 remains quite reticent and inexpressive despite the wine’s considerable juiciness. Ideally, the wine is best left alone for another year or two, if not longer. Sweet hints of oak frame the finish. The Rocca is 60% Sangioveto, 20% Merlot and 20% Cabernet Sauvignon. Anticipated maturity: 2014-2023. Proprietor Paolo Panerai is a bit of a Renaissance man. Panerai publishes Milano Finanza, Italy’s equivalent of Barrons (for which he also writes one of that country’s most widely read editorial columns), publishes a number of other more lifestyle oriented magazines and has a joint venture with CNBC, to list a few of his business interests. Oh, and he makes pretty good wines, too. Since the 1970s Panerai and his family have owned Castellare, one of the leading estates in Chianti Classico. More recently, Panerai has set his sights on making first-rate wines in Maremma through this joint venture with the Rothschild family. Rocca di Frassinello is a young winery, and the best is clearly yet to come.Importer: Vias Imports, New York, NY; tel. (212) 629-0200

The 2007 Rocca di Frassinello (60% Sangioveto, 20% Merlot and 20% Cabernet Sauvignon) flows from the glass with layers of minerals, dark red blackberries, blueberry jam, spices and sweet French oak, all of which come together on a soft, opulent frame. The sumptuous personality follows through to a long finish where the tannins turn just a touch dry. Ideally, the wine should be opened at least 30 minutes in advance to allow for the bouquet to find its focus. Anticipated maturity: 2010-2022. Importer: Vias Imports, New York, NY; tel. (212) 629-0200

Here’s a tight, well-balanced blend of Sangiovese, Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon with loads of mature fruit and spice. The wine is made in the Maremma area of southern Tuscany and would pair easily with game meat or barbecued pork. The mouthfeel incorporates both sweet and spicy elements. ——M.L.(3/1/2010)—— 88