The 2009 Rocca di Frassinello impresses for its polish and supremely elegant personality. Sweet red berries, roses and licorice are among the aromas and flavors that emerge from this pliant, polished red. This is a more feminine style than the 2008 and ultimately a touch more refined as well. The Rocca is 60% Sangioveto, 20% Merlot and 20% Cabernet Sauvignon. Anticipated maturity: 2014-2021. Proprietor Paolo Panerai is a bit of a Renaissance man. Panerai publishes Milano Finanza, Italy’s equivalent of Barrons (for which he also writes one of that country’s most widely read editorial columns), publishes a number of other more lifestyle oriented magazines and has a joint venture with CNBC, to list a few of his business interests. Oh, and he makes pretty good wines, too. Since the 1970s Panerai and his family have owned Castellare, one of the leading estates in Chianti Classico. More recently, Panerai has set his sights on making first-rate wines in Maremma through this joint venture with the Rothschild family. Rocca di Frassinello is a young winery, and the best is clearly yet to come.Importer: Vias Imports, New York, NY; tel. (212) 629-0200