The estate’s top bottling, the 2005 Rocca di Frassinello, is 60% Sangioveto, 20% Merlot and 20% Cabernet Sauvignon aged in French oak. It opens with gorgeous aromatics that waft from the glass, inviting the taster to discover the wine’s layered expression of crushed flowers, raspberries, spices and sweet toasted oak. This feminine wine reveals a restrained style of winemaking. It offers outstanding length and balance, although like all wines in this vintage, the tannins are a bit of an issue. Still, all things considered, this is a fine, polished effort from Rocca di Frassinello. Anticipated maturity: 2010-2020. I was delighted by the quality of these 2005s from Rocca di Frassinello, especially after the less than exciting set of wines this young estate produced in 2004. Despite the challenges of 2005, quality appears to be moving in the right direction, for which I heartily congratulate proprietor Paolo Panerai and winemakers Alessandro Cellai and Christian Le Sommer.Importer: Vias Imports, New York, NY; tel. (212) 629-0200

Le Sughere is a well-composed wine, except for a hint of Band-Aid that blows off relatively quickly to enhance natural aromas of red fruit, root beer and toast. It offers sweet herb flavors and fresh mint on the close.——M.L.(4/1/2008)—— 87