The 2009 Zinfandel Old Crane Ranch is a restrained, inward Zinfandel that is still keeping its cards pretty close to the vest. It shows fabulous concentration and richness in its deep layers of fruit, with firm but well-integrated tannins, which provide a framework for a gorgeous expression of variety and site. This is a striking, fabulous wine, but it will require patience. Anticipated maturity: 2014-2024. This lineup from Biale is full of fabulous wines. The Zinfandels in particular are well worth seeking out. Tel. (707) 257-7555

Dark ruby in color, the 2008 Zinfandel Old Crane Ranch (planted in the 1880s and owned by the same family since 1932, the Salvestrins) has an almost Grenache-like, kirsch character. It is one of the more compact, medium-bodied Zinfandels, without the nuances and generosity of the other wines. There is a certain freshness to it, but it is more of a lightweight compared to the other big, brawny Zinfandels from Biale. Nevertheless, this is no wimpy wine. Drink it over the next 2-3 years. There is always a remarkable array of wines from Biale Vineyards. This family has been farming Zinfandel in Napa since 1937, and the wines consistently are among the highlights in my Zinfandel tastings. All of these wine generally have production levels of 200 to 500 cases, with the exception of the Valsecchi, which is only 47 cases, and the Black Chicken, which is nearly 2,600 cases. Tel. (707) 257-7555