The 2018 Meursault Les Narvaux is very attractive, wafting from the glass with aromas of pear, toasted almond, pastry cream and white flowers. On the palate, it's medium to full-bodied, supple and satiny, with fine concentration and tangy acids, concluding with promisingly chalky grip.

The 2017 Meursault Les Narvaux is showing brilliantly from bottle, opening in the glass with scents of citrus oil, white flowers, Anjou pear and freshly baked bread. Medium to full-bodied, tensile and searingly mineral, this is a concentrated but comparatively austere Narvaux that will need time to unwind.

The 2014 Meursault Narvaux comes from the lieu-dit of "Les Narvaux-Dessous" from vines planted 55 years ago. The nose displays fine mineralité with light granite scents infusing the citrus fruit and tinned apricot. This is tightly wound at the moment and will need three or four years to open. The palate is medium-bodied with a harmonious opening, hints of almond and spice informing the entry, sedate almost yet with fine tension on the finish. This is one of the domaine's best offerings in 2014 and should reward several years in bottle.

The 2013 Meursault Narvaux has a pretty apricot-blossom bouquet: bashful at first, but opening nicely with encouragement. There are hints of orange cordial here, perhaps even mandarin. The palate is nicely balanced, a little more “gras” than the Laurale with good weight on the finish. It needs just a touch more minerality to develop on the finish that is withdrawn at the moment.

The 2012 Meursault Les Narvaux comes from 40 and 50-year old vines in the lieu-dit “Narvaux-Dessus” that was purchased in 2008. It has more potency on the nose compared to the En Luraule and the Sous la Velle, whilst the palate is crisp and taut with good focus and impressive tension on the vibrant finish. This is another great Narvaux – premier cru in all but name as far as I am concerned. Naturally, I spent ten minutes parked outside Domaine Francois Jobard listening to Warpaint’s aptly entitled debut album “The Fool,” before it dawned upon me that I should have been at his brother Charles’s house ten minutes ago. Cue quick dash across Meursault village. Charles Jobard was waiting for outside the winery, probably aware that I would have gone to the wrong address. Charles actually retired a few years ago, but since his son Remi was not on hand, he temporarily came out of retirement to guide me through what were some really quite sublime expressions of Meursault without necessarily resorting to premier crus. The domaine was created in the 1960s when Pierre Jobard divided his holdings between his two sons, Francois and Charles. In 1991 Charles was joined by his son, who then took charge five years later. The domaine has avoided use of herbicides and chemicals since 1994 and adopted the policy of tightly cordon pruning their vines in order to obviate excessive green pruning later in the season. The wines had been raised in new and used oak (20% new plus one to four-year old) and also 1,200-litre foudres before spending six months in stainless steel vats for bottling in February 2014. I tasted through their entire range of wines, though readers should note that there henceforth there is no Meursault Charmes since the vines were pulled up in 2012. I was really taken by these wines – rather a revelation to this writer since I have only come across them sporadically courtesy of their UK importer. To anoint them with the highest praise, I was reminded of the first time I encountered Jean-Marc Roulot’s exceptional wines, full of aromatic nuance and heavenly poise on the palate. If like me, you are still waiting to become au fait with Remi Jobard, then my advice is the sooner the better. Importer: Peter Weygandt and also Lea & Sandeman (UK)