The 2007 Remelluri is composed of 90% Tempranillo, 5% Graciano, and 5% Garnacha fermented with indigenous yeasts and aged for 16 months in seasoned French and American oak. Deep purple in color, it reveals an already complex bouquet of exotic spices, leather, violets, mineral, and assorted black fruits. In the glass it is succulent with plush fruit, terrific grip and volume, and a lengthy, rich, supple finish. It can be approached now but is likely to continue filling out for several more years. The modern winery of Remelluri was established in 1967. The vineyards are farmed organically and the winery employs an integrated system of agriculture. The winemaker is the renowned Telmo Rodriguez. Remelluri’s Blanco is the reference standard against which all others are measured in virtually every vintage. Importer: Andre Tamers, De Maison Selections, Chapel Hill, NC; www.demaisonselections.com

The 2005 Tinto is composed of 80% Tempranillo and the balance Garnacha, Graciano, and Mazuelo, all from estate fruit with the wine aged mainly in French oak. Dark ruby colored, it displays an expressive nose of cedar, spice box, violets, black cherry, and blackberry. Savory and layered on the palate, it conceals enough structure to evolve for another 2-3 years. This solid effort will offer prime drinking from 2012 to 2020. Officially known as Bodegas Y Vinedos Granja Ntra. Sra. De Remelluri, but known to fans as simply Remelluri, this remains one of Rioja’s reference points. Importer: Jorge Ordonez, Fine Estates from Spain, Dedham, MA; tel. (781) 461-5767

About as big and ripe as they come before tilting to the other side. Aromas of prune, raisin, marzipan, leather and baked berry fruit are sweet and inviting, while the loaded, tannic palate deals big berry flavors, tea and spice. Mint and coconut grace the pusling, stocked finish. Drink from 2012 thru 2015.——M.S.(4/1/2010)—— 91

The 2004 Remelluri is 80% Tempranillo with the balance Garnacha, Graciano, and Mazuelo. Aromas of earthy minerals, forest floor, iodine, and blackberry lead to an elegant, racy Rioja with spicy fruit and enough structure to evolve for 4-6 years. It is a bit lean in the finish but additional cellaring may round it out. Importer: Jorge Ordonez, Fine Estates From Spain, Dedham, MA; tel. (781) 461-5767

After escaping a gaseous, sulfuric opening, Remelluri evolves into the serious, world-class wine that it is. Blackberry is dominant on both the nose and palate, while the feel is ripe, pumped up and loaded with fruit and tannin. The more it airs out, the more maxed out it gets. This is a big black-fruit wine to drink now or over the next few years.——M.S.(2/1/2009)—— 91